Turtle Stops Eating?

Mr. and Mrs. have stopped eating for a week...:( I know the reason is because of their Pneumonia, but there are also other reasons for turtle stops eating such as temperature, water condition and deceases. If your turtle is an adult, you may try to force feeding... but if he is a baby like Mr. and Mrs, the best way is to wait for them being healed and start eating by themselves.

Below is an article I found about some common reasons for a turtle stops eating. I hope my Mr. and Mrs. will be fully healed very SOON!

Article sources: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20071218171301AAQejs3

Some things that are pretty general and should be checked if the turtle recently changed its patterns:

Temperature--if too cold, turtles can't digest so they stop eating. Your turtle needs a heater if there isn't one already.

Pneumonia--turtles are pretty susceptible to respiratory infections. Look to see any bubbles coming out of the nose while it's on land. Listen to hear any wheezing noises (you pretty much shouldn't be able to hear strong breathing noises in any turtles). These can indicate a pneumonia which should be treated by a specialist. 

Clear eyes--the turtles eyes should not be weepy with fluid or pus or mucus. Check to make sure one isn't more difficult for the turtle to open. Make sure they are not swollen. All of these can be signs of eye or other infections. 

Shell--is the shell soft. Does the shell show "damaged" spots that look like a sore or erosion. Once you find pictures of your breed of turtle online, compare the shape of the shell of yours to healthy turtles shown online. Most turtles are pretty dome shaped and should not be slope-shelled, asymmetrical, show dented areas of shell, etc. Any of these can be signs of disease, nutritional deficiency, or a lack of light. (Tiny little flakes at the center of scutes or edges of the shell are probably just normal shell growth).

Fungus--look for white cottony like growths on the shell, mouth, or extremities. These can be fungal infection. In my experience this usually doesn't cause lethargy until seriously progressed. 

Diet--once you figure out what kind of turtle you own, make sure it has the right diet. One of the most common mistakes of new turtle owners is feeding any/all turtles lettuce and fruit. Some breeds don't eat this at all, and most breeds that don't eat meat need attention payed to keeping the assortment well-rounded. Turtles fed the wrong diet will slowly die.

Light--does your turtle get a broad spectrum light? Just like people, most animals need sunlight (artificial or real) to healthily grow and process nutrients.

Feces--should be fairly well formed. If your land turtle has loose watery stools, or stools are exceptionally foul smelling, it might be due to a parasite or other illness and should be seen by a specialist.

Turtle Pneumonia

I am sad to say Mr. and Mrs. are not fine recently. I took them to vet, then be told they got pneumonia. There is not much I can do because they are too small. Doc. Burrows gave them injections of antibiotics. I really hope it works. :(

Below is the article I found about the Pneumonia. 

(Article source: http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/medinjuries.htm)

Symptoms: 

Pneumonia is not something you can tell right away. The turtle usually will begin to exhibit sighs, most common of which are listed below, but other times they will carry it for several months without showing any signs or symptoms of being sick. An example: One of my red ear sliders, Frisbee, was fine on Friday evening before we went out of town. Sunday night, he was listing (swimming crooked, one side leaning lower than the other).  A week or so later with treatment, he was 100% again and has not had any further problems. On the other hand, Thorn, an Argentine Snakeneck Turtle, showed no signs until near death. Tests were conducted by a qualified herp vet (to include Radiographs and CT Scan), who diagnosed the problem as Necrotizing Pneumonia (deteriorating the lung tissue itself). This condition was estimated to have begun almost 1 year prior to showing any signs, and could have continued until death had I not gotten lucky and happen to see Thorn cough of a small amount of lung tissue.

Treatment:

Keep the water temp, ambient air temp and basking temps in a comfortable cushion, as per the needs of that particular species. Ensure that the ambient air temp does not fall below the temp of the water. If it does for a few hours (ie: during the night) then that is normal and natural in the wild. Several cases of pneumonia have been caused by this easily preventable condition. Another way of preventing pneumonia, is  to keep the turtles away from drafts, such as under or near open windows, especially in the winter. In our early days, we lost a slider to pneumonia this way.

If you are still not sure your turtle had pneumonia or not, the video below shows exactly what your turtle will do if he gets it....

Saturday, walking my turtles

Mr. & Mrs. start to explore the world! :)

Hey Mr., I still can see you! XD

Cute Mr.

Did I mention the lettuce is your food not for basking? ;)

Where to find a vet for your turtle?

Unfortunately, Mrs and Mr got sick again.... they stay on the dock all day and don't feel like eating....I took them to the vet today and they got two injections on their little arms....I believe it was really hurt... :(

But they became much better this afternoon... Mrs was more active... she swam up and down to chase for the food...(She seemed very enjoy the current of the new filter)

I will take them in on Tuesday and Friday... two more injections are waiting for them... I really hope they will be healthy soon!

I searched online and found the Canadian Reptile Veterinarian Listing... I believe they are better vets for my turtles...

There is only one in Barrie:

Tania Burrows
350 Big Bay Point RD
Barrie, ON, L4N 8A8
705-735-1414


http://www.bigbayvet.com/

Turtle eye diseases

Article source: http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/topic/76989-baby-painted-turtle-with-swollen-eye/

Turtle eye diseases

Recognising and treating eye diseases in pet turtles

© Neale Monks 2007, Wet Web Media

Summary

Turtles suffer from two distinct eye problems: swollen eyelids and bacterial eye infections. Swollen eyes effectively render the turtle blind, and this makes it difficult for the animal to feed itself, so that the turtle is at serious risk of starvation. Bacterial eye infections are develop on their own or together with swollen eyes. Because the bacteria can easily move from the eye to the nasal passages, if left untreated an eye infection can quickly lead to a potentially fatal respiratory tract infection.

Symptoms

Typical symptoms of swollen eyes include:
· In mild cases, swollen eyelids will simply seem puffier than normal
· Reddening of the conjunctiva and orbital (tear-secreting) glands
· In more severe cases the eyelids become so swollen that the turtle cannot open its eyes, so is for all practical purposes blind
· Weeping (excess tear production) is common, along with the accumulation of detritus (specifically dead cells) around the eye
· Often the nose becomes blocked as well
· When turtles cannot see, they cannot feed, so turtles suffering from swollen eyelids will stop eating and lose weight

Eye infections can occur on their own or in association with swollen eyes. Eye infections can also be connected with respiratory tract infections. Typical symptoms of eye infections include:
· Reddening of the conjunctiva and surrounding tissues
· Eye appears puffy and/or watery
· Turtle frequently rubs or scratches its eyes
· Look out for respiratory tract infections as well, such as wheezing, loss of proper balance when swimming, and excessive amounts of fluids coming from the nose and mouth

Diagnosis
Any turtle with eye infection or swelling will need to be examined by a vet because confirming and treating these problems is beyond the ability of the average hobbyist. The vet will examine the Harderian glands for signs of swelling. If this is found, it is a good indicator that the immediate problem is Vitamin A deficiency (hypovitaminosis A) cause by a poor diet. In this case, the vet will give the turtle an immediate injection of Vitamin A to stabilise the condition, and then provide the pet owner with advice on how to improve the diet so that the turtle will recover.
Swollen eyelids can also be caused by a bacterial infection such as a respiratory tract infection, trapped sand or silt under the eyelid, physical trauma, or a variety of other problems. A vet familiar with reptiles will consider all these options and will check for them in turn, but a vet less familiar with reptiles might not. If in doubt, mention the alternatives to the vet, of only as a reminder!
Bacterial infections of the eye will be confirmed by sampling the mucous around the eyes using swabs. Once the precise infection is diagnosed, the vet will then prescribe suitable antibiotics, typically administered by an intramuscular injection.

Similar diseases
Asymmetrical swelling of the eye (that is, one eye is puffed up but the other is not) is normally caused by physical damage. Because of the physical damage, a secondary infection behind the eye is causes the eye to bulge. This will need to be treated by a vet using an appropriate antibiotic. Left untreated, these infections can spread, frequently causing blindness and often killing the turtle.
Infections of the Eustachian tubes (the connecting tubes between the ears and throat) can also cause the eye to swell. Again, this requires veterinarian assistance.
Chlorinated water can irritate the eyes of aquatic turtles, causing them to wipe or scratch their eyes. All new water added to the vivarium should have the chlorine (and chloramine, if present) removed using dechlorinator of the sort sold for use in fish tanks.

Pathology
Swelling of the eyelids is one of the first signs of Vitamin A deficiency. More specifically, the Harderian glands become swollen, and these cause the eyes to puff up. Eventually the eyelids become so swollen that the turtlecannot open its eyes at all, and effectively it becomes blind. Less apparent to the pet owner will be the other usual problems caused by Vitamin A deficiency, including kidney damage and, once the problem becomes terminal, swelling around the feet.
Eye infections are caused by a variety of bacteria most frequently Aeromonas and Pseudomonas spp. The vet will confirm this. Left untreated, eye infections can lead to septicaemia and respiratory tract infections. These can in turn eventually kill your turtle.

Causative factors
Swollen eyelids are a symptom of Vitamin A deficiency. While this is not normally a problem when a turtle is given a healthy, balanced diet, aquatic turtles (terrapins) are all too often given very inadequate diets lacking in fresh plant material.
Eye infections can have a variety of causes. Aquatic turtles often develop them when kept in dirty water. Eyeinfections can also be connected with other diseases, including swollen eyelids and respiratory tract infections.

Therapy
Both swollen eyelids and eye infections need veterinarian help. Assuming that the Vitamin A deficiency has not reached a terminal stage, a full recovery can be expected. Normally the vet will give the turtle an immediate injection of Vitamin A, and then further improve the situation by prescribing Vitamin A drops that will need to be administered orally. The pet owner will also be expected to improve the turtle’s diet to prevent a relapse. Bathing of the eye to alleviate the symptoms is usually part of the treatment as well. Once the swelling of the eyelids has gone down, the turtle is able to see normally again.
Although Vitamin A deficiency often leads to swollen eyelids, this isn’t always the case, and you should always ask your vet to consider a bacterial infection as well.
Eye infections will need to be treated with a systemic antibiotic. Because of the close connection between eyeinfections and living conditions, it is critical to ensure that the turtle’s vivarium is optimised. Keep the vivarium draught-free and warm, and ensure that the water is spotlessly clean. Most turtles also need a UV-B lamp for basking.

Prevention
Avoiding a Vitamin A deficiency is easy enough if a turtle is given an adequate diet. The problem for many hobbyists starting out with turtles is that they assume the dried pellet foods offered by pet stores are an adequate diet; they are not! Before keeping any turtle, carefully research its dietary requirements. Most species of turtle are at least partially herbivorous, and need lots of fresh green foods to do well.
The popular red-ear slider Trachemys scripta elegans feeds very largely on plants throughout its life. Juveniles will need a diet containing about 50% plant material, and adults nearer 75% plant material. Suitable plant foods include dandelion leaves, red leaf lettuce, curly green lettuce and small amounts of green beans, squash and courgette (zucchini). Tomatoes and other fruits can be used as very occasional treats but because of their acidity and high sugar content shouldn’t be used too often. The skin and seeds are a potential choking hazard and should be removed before use. Aquarium plant cuttings make excellent staple foods for turtles. Canadian pondweed (Elodeaor Anacharis spp.) is cheap, easy to obtain, and can be placed in the vivarium and left for the turtle to graze on through the week.
Vitamin supplements are available but should be used carefully. Always use them within the doses recommended by the manufacturer (or your vet) because overdosing is a distinct possibility. Vitamin supplements aren’t strictly necessary if your turtle is eating a healthy diet rich in greens.
To prevent eye infections, always keep the water in the vivarium clean. This means installing a suitable biological filter to remove ammonia from the water, and performing at least 50% water changes every week. Use a test kit to check for ammonia or nitrite in the water; both should register at zero. If you detect either ammonia or nitrite in the water it means that the filter is inadequate to the job and must be upgraded. Ammonia and nitrite irritate the sensitive tissues of the eye, ultimately allowing eye infections to become established.

What to feed my turtles?

As a new turtle keeper, I always want to try something new for my turtles. I don't really think my lovely turtles will enjoy the turtle food steak very much. I searched all day for right food for turtles. I found the article below. I hope it will be helpful for you guys.

Article source: http://www.turtletimes.com/forums/topic/41568-a-diet-summary-for-sliders/

Providing a Balanced diet for Sliders

The diet of the Red Eared Slider can be somewhat difficult to understand. For the interests of people new to the Slider, and of course its close relatives, I have decided to make this topic. Here I will discuss the most important parts of the Slider diet, as well as certain dietary issues.

For easier reading, I will put general information in Bold, and my own personal comments are given in Italics

The way in which Sliders and other water turtles feed is quite strange. They require the water in their mouths to swallow. Because of this, they should be fed in the water.

The recommended amount to be fed is a portion equal to the size of the turtle’s head. Also, as turtles grow, they should be fed less frequently. Feeding a hatchling daily is fine, but adults should be fed once every 2-3 days. It is up to you to decide when your turtle is big enough to stop being fed every day, but I would estimate around 4", getting less frequent as the size increases.
A lot of people feed their turtles in separate feeding containers to reduce waste and mess. I do this with especially messy foods, but I try to keep stress to a minimum by usually feeding in the main tank.

The main groups of food are:
-  Processed food
-  Animal Protein
-  Plant matter

 PROCESSED
To start with, I will talk about the processed turtle foods, sold in most pet shops. These products are usually comprised of the main food groups rolled into small pellets. Don't let the tub fool you, a lot of them say that they are the only food necessary for turtles and a lot of unwary turtle owners trust the packet. They should certainly not be the sole staple of the slider diet.
However, even though processed foods aren’t a sole staple, they should still be a portion of the total diet offered. A lot of care sheets on the internet, and several books, recommend that the amount allocated to these processed foods should be 25%.
I recommend that rather than feeding an entirely pellet meal every four days, just mix a few pellets in with your daily feeding. I say this mainly because some turtles, especially ones exposed to a pellet-only diet for some time, can refuse other foods, so feeding a pellet only meal could, in my opinion can trigger them to refuse other foods.

There are several brands of commercial turtle foods. Here are a few of the main ones:

ReptoMin by TetraFauna is an excellent product nutritionally, especially in calcium, which is important for turtle's shells and bones. It is mainly made from vegetable extract, fish and derivatives, mollusks and crustaceans, and algae. Most of these are part of the natural slider diet, except the fact they are not fresh.
ReptoMin is the usual pellet I use. I find it an excellent product and it comes in several varieties, including a formula for hatchlings. My Red Ear also seemed to take to them easily after I switched from another brand. Also, they soften quickly enough in water and do not get broken up easily if the turtle does not eat them immediately.

Wardley Turtle Sticks is another brand name I know of. It is mainly made from Ground Corn, and fish, chicken, corn gluten and soybean meal. It has more protein than ReptoMin, but has less calcium. 
I have not used Wardley before, but I know several keepers do. I have heard good things about it, and it is a popular choice, however, it is unavailable where I live.

Sera Raffy Turtle and Terrapin foods are the final commercial food I have chosen to mention. More and more pet shops seem to be stocking it lately. It contains natural foods, such as mussels and fly larvae and is rich in protein and calcium. 
The downside I find with the Sera Raffy brand is that they recommend that you alternate between the different varieties of their commercial foods. This can get fairly expensive as there are several varieties.

All the commercial foods I mention are found in many pet stores. A mixture of these processed foods can be used, but I prefer to stick to one as it's cheaper and guaranteed to be used up within the use-by date.

 ANIMAL PROTEIN
This type of food is important for proper growth. Too much animal protein can cause the shell of a turtle to pyramid, which will disfigure it for life. Most keepers recommend that Sliders should be fed 25% animal protein in their diet. As most turtle's age, they tend to eat more plant matter and less animal protein, so alter the diet accordingly.
Again, I recommend adding a small amount to your Slider's daily meal rather than a totally protein meal every four days.

Animal protein comes in many forms. Some types come with lots of calcium, others with lots of fat, so it's important to be aware of what your little shelled buddy is consuming.

Meats are a good example of animal protein. Beef and chicken are the more common fed to turtles. They both have large amounts of protein, but these meats should be cooked first before feeding to your slider. The downside of beef is that it comes with a lot of fat. Both chicken and beef are also not easy to prepare everyday, unless of course you're cooking it for your own meal, as cooking a pea size piece of either is hard work! Avoid all tinned meats, such as Spam, corned beef, or things like hotdogs, as there's a lot of fat in them.

Fish, shellfish and crustaceans are good natural examples of animal protein. The natural slider diet consists of a lot of aquatic crustaceans, so things such as water snails, prawn and mussels are excellent. Also, they contain high amounts of calcium, important for the turtle's shell and bones. Whether you feed live or dead food is up to you, as live fish can benefit the turtles a lot as they get exercise from chasing.
Minnows, Danios, Guppies and Tiger Barbs are all good fish to have in the tank as Feeder fish. Goldfish are unsuitable as they are too fatty and have a sharp spine in their fins. Please do not be tempted to introduce live clams and crayfish into a turtle tank, as both can do damage to turtles. Also, try to avoid the pet-shop freeze-dried foods, such as brine shrimp, as they are just the 'husk' of the animal with little nutritional value.
I occasionally feed prawn as my animal protein source, but variety is the key. Switch between several types of protein for a healthy Slider! I like to leave a few feeder fish in the tank and skip my daily feeding of animal protein if one is missing, but some turtles completely ignore them! I recommend tinned tuna fish for anyone who cannot get their turtle to eat, as it has a very strong odor that entices sliders to. 

Live insects are good for turtles also, although there are a few things you should know. Insects need to be 'Gut loaded' before feeding to animals, which means feeding them a good meal so your turtle gets a good meal. There are two ways to gut load an insect. One is to use a commercially available Gut load mix; the other is to feed them fruit and vegetables. I like to feed my insects potato, carrot, and bran cereal. Make sure you replace the vegetables regularly though, as they need them for water. There are also several types of insect. Crickets and locusts are good, but the main nutrition area is the juicy abdomen, and some people remove the back legs to stop them jumping, and because they can be difficult to swallow and digest. Mealworms are difficult to digest, and try to get regular ones, not the hormone treated giant ones. Wax worms are full of fat, so feed rarely. Insects and bugs from your garden can be fed too, such as Earthworms and pill bugs (woodlice). Make sure that there are no pesticides used in the area where they are collected.
I like to feed a big locust every now and them without the legs, just watch the head as they can bite, and I usually remove that too. They are also expensive (around $1 each for adults) and noisy, as are crickets. I find mealworms are best bought small, as if they are adults they turn into beetles quickly. Earthworms can contain parasites, so limit them, unless you buy them as reptile food and do not dig them yourself. Frozen fish foods can be fed in moderation. Bloodworm will be readily consumed, as will frozen brine shrimp. They can all be messy, and it is best to feed these in bare-bottom tanks, or a separate feeding container. They are easy to keep for a long time in the freezer, and usually cheap, just allow them to thaw out first before feeding. I feed bloodworm in small amounts in the tank, as the feeder fish eat any excess, but if you are feeding large amounts, try it in a separate container. I feed this protein about once a month.

Other proteins are available for other animals. Dog and cat food can be used. The stuff in the jelly is easier to work with rather than the dry stuff, but they usually contain a lot of fat. 
I don't like feeding these foods, as they are not part of the natural diet, and seem a bit unhealthy to me. They also make a big mess, and dry foods have to be soaked first. My slider didn't seem to like them much either, so I never really use them.

 PLANT MATTER
Plants are very important to the Slider's diet. In the wild, an aquatic turtle would frequently eat aquatic vegetation, so it is important to offer it from an early age. In general, baby sliders may refuse to eat plant matter, and will eat a more meaty diet, but lots of them tend to become more vegetarian as they age. Plant matter should be offered at every feeding even if the turtle refuses to eat it, and having a source of plants in the tank does little harm. It is almost impossible to maintain a planted set-up in a turtle tank, as even hatchlings love to tear up aquatic plants, even if they don't eat them.

I will begin this section with a few aquatic plants that I have had success with.
-Anacharis, the common water plant. Usually sold for cold-water aquariums, it is cheap usually and nutritious. Turtles will readily tear into it, and usually eat it.
-Water Lettuce, provides shaded areas as it is a floating plant, and turtles will take chunks out of it. Water Lettuce can sometimes expensive to buy however.
-Duckweed, common small green plant that can be found on many ponds. High in calcium and provides shade.
Anacharis is excellent, but feeding in a separate container is best, as it makes a huge mess. Duckweed is good, but can clog the filter and dries on the glass looking nasty. I recommend adding a small amount to the tank. The turtle will eat it, or it will grow.

Some non-aquatic plant matter recommended for Sliders are:
-Dandelion leaves, make sure they are not collected from an area that has been sprayed with pesticides.
-Lettuce, not hugely recommended as it has little nutritional value, but avoid iceberg, which is basically water. The best to use is Romaine.
-Collard Greens can be floated in the tank and just left for the turtle to take bites out of.
-Shredded Carrot is good nutritionally, and my Red Ear seems to enjoy it more than other vegetables.
Dandelion leaves are easy food as long as you're sure they're pesticide free. Floating a few leaves or romaine lettuce or Collard greens allows the turtle to play with something in the tank also.

Some plants contain too much oxalic acid, such as Spinach and broccoli, which inhibits the absorption of calcium. Try to stick to greens that have been mentioned for turtles. Fruits can be fed as a treat, such as banana, but only as a rare treat.

DIET ADDITIONS
Cuttlefish bone, available at most pet shops for birds to sharpen their beaks on, should be offered to the turtle. Try to get the unflavored kind, without any seeds or flavoring meant for birds. Remove the hard backing on one side (the side which you can't make an indent with your nail) and float the soft part in the tank. This is full of calcium and the turtle will bite chunks off occasionally. The soft cuttlebone can also be ground into a powder and applied to foods, although it will quickly dissolve in the water. Cuttlebone is cheap, and comes from the cuttlefish (a squid like creature). I buy each cuttlebone for under $0.50
A vitamin/mineral supplement can be added to the foods for a boost, especially if your turtle is lacking a certain vitamin or is unwell. Always follow the instructions on the packet and don't go over the recommended amount.
I add a supplement once a week. I also apply it to meals with not as much nutrition, such as lettuce.

Diet plans:
Hatchling (up to 3-4"):
Feeding once a day, a couple of hatchling pellets, a treat size protein (about 30%), and an offering of plant matter, although the turtle may not eat it. A small 2cm block of cuttlebone placed in every 3 days.

Sub-Adult (4-8"):
Feeding every 1-2 days (longer gaps between meals as the turtle gets larger), 2-3 Processed turtle sticks, a small amount of protein (25% of diet), such as prawn, a large plant section, even if left in the tank for a day. Unless the plant matter is an aquatic plant, remove any uneaten plants after a day. Cuttle bone should be a 3-4 cm block, replaced every 3-4 days.

Adult (8" and larger):
Feeding every 2-3 days, 3-4 Turtle sticks, a medium size protein amount (about 15% of food), such as a feeder fish or prawn, a couple of greens, such as dandelion leaves. A whole cuttlebone (without hard backing) should be floated in the tank until it sinks, then replace it.

Mrs waves to everyone

Mrs. Y is a good predator, but not good at climbing on the dock... lol...:)

R.I.P Mr.

Let's Meet Mr. & Mrs. Y!

Hi everyone, welcome to Mr. and Mrs. Y's Turtle life. 


Mr. and Mrs. Y are two extremely baby red-ear-sliders I got recently.


I will share their photos, videos and stories of them. I will also write some of my experience and their habit. 


It will be a lot of fun. I invite you guys join me with Mr. and Mrs. Y's turtle life! :)

Mr. (Right) & Mrs. (Left)

      This is the picture of the lovely couple today. It seem both of them are enjoying the sunshine and didn't in the mood of taking pictures. So I decide to leave them alone for now. I will write something about their set up a little bit next time!